I opted to buy the Automatic load Leveling Suspension. I really like the idea of having load leveling in my car. I comes in handy in my 78 when I have a back seat full of people and/or a trunk full of cargo. Anyway, the installation of these shocks is very straight forward. The hardest part was the fact that to remove the lower shock mounting bolt, you need a 15mm combination wrench. I don't have one. I used a crescent wrench on one side and then remembered I had a new, never been used, set of metric crow's foot wrenches. I was able to make use of that for the other side. For the top bolt, you need a 15mm and a 5/8 socket. I imagine two 15mm sockets would work if you had two but I don't and you HAVE TO use a socket in there because a wrench won't work. I used a swing bar on one end due to the tight confines. Nothing else to that, just wrench the thing off and push out the bolt...same on the bottom. The bottoms were quite tight.

I noticed that the air fitting on the new shocks was slightly different than the old ones. I opted to not buy the air line kit when I bought the shocks because I thought it would just hook up. I guess I'll go buy that kit to make things easy.

After I had all that installed, I decided to check out the air compressor system. I was horrified to see where Chrysler had mounted that compressor. It is behind the right rear wheel, in the mud, salt and dirt. It was in terrible shape. I'll be surprised if it works at all. I removed it from that location and will mount it, or a replacement should it not work, in the trunk area somewhere, along with a small air reservoir. You see, they apparently didn't use a reservoir on these systems and they didn't use a conventional leveling valve either. There was some sort of electric ride height sensor mounted on the right rear shock. That told the compressor when to run to boost the ride height and when to release air to lower the ride. I plan to install a regular ride height leveling valve such as those found in semi tractor trailer units. I did so on my 78 and it works great. There will be a little mounting and plumbing to do but it certainly isn't rocket science! I'll probably do that after I get the car to pass inspection. I'll just install the manual filler valve until then.

Replacing the shocks themselves was fairly easy. Basically, remove the top and bottom mounting bolts and remove the old shock and then bolt the new one back in place. The only snag I ran into was the fact that I needed a 15mm open end wrench to remove the lower mounting bolt. I didn't have one but I did have a 15mm crow-foot wrench. I used that and my air impact to remove the lower mounting bolt. I used a ratchet and a swing bar to remove the top mounting bolt. The only other thing to do is connect the plumbing for the air supply. There is a stock sheath that runs from one side of the car to the other so I removed the old air line and inserted the new air line into it. I routed both air lines into the trunk area through the access opening where the wiring for the air compressor normally routes. I had already removed the air compressor from its location, directly behind the right rear wheel. I plan to install a different air compressor (because the stock one is not in good shape) in the trunk along with a small reservoir that I salvaged from my previous 1977 New Yorker Brougham parts car. I'll also leave this part till after the inspection. For now, there is just a tire valve stem type fitting in the trunk whereby I can inflate the shocks.

Front brakes

• Buy new rotors and linings from the parts store
• remove front wheel
• remove caliper
• remove old linings
• remove old rotor
• install new rotor
• install new linings
• install caliper
• install wheel.

• Suspension strut
• Steering tie rod
• ABS Sensor
• Ball joint

Left and right drive axles

• Set parking brake, raise front of car and support on axle stands, remove both front wheels.
• Remove the cotter pin, nut locking cover, and spring washer. Remove the large 32mm axle nut. It is TIGHT. (either have some one press on the brakes to keep the front rotors from turning, or jam a screw driver into the vents of the brake rotor to keep it from turning) Remove the thick washer behind the nut.
• Remove 4 bolts that hold the sway bar attached to the lower A frames on both sides of the car. The bolts (2 each) secure a plate which compresses a rubber insulator which goes around the end of the sway bar. These bolts pass all the way through the A frame with 13mm nuts on top. They have 13mm heads on the bolt and 13mm nuts. They are about 1.5 inches long. These bolts are tight and rusty and often break. You will have better success using an impact wrench to remove them without breaking them. I also use ZEP-45 as a penetrating oil, it is the best I have ever seen. Apply ZEP and allow it to soak for 20 to 30 minutes before attempting to remove the bolts.
• The sway bar will still be attached to the "K Frame" by way of two other rubber mounts farther inboard. Just push down on the end of the bar, swiveling it down. It will spin in the rubber bushings, it just may be stuck.
• Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball joint has a vertical "pin" sticking out the top of it which is attached to the steering knuckle. It sticks in a hole in the bottom of the knuckle and is clamped in place by a single horizontal bolt. This bolt has a 15mm head, and 18mm nut. Remove this bolt. It might have to be tapped out if it is stuck. If so, leave the nut on the very end of the bolt so you don't damage the bolt threads when you hit it.
• Slip the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I prefer to use a bottle jack (I have plenty at my place) to support the steering knuckle while I drive the lower control arm downward with a hammer, thus driving the ball joint outa the steering knuckle. You can also use a pry bar, crow bar, or whatever, and pry down on the lower A frame slipping the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. It should just slide out with a little force.
• Now the strut and steering knuckle are free of the lower A frame. Swing the Steering knuckle out pulling the axle out of the hub in the steering knuckle.
• Pull the axle out of the transmission. Some older models have snap rings which hold the axles in, which I think require you to pry out the axle from the transmission. I have not done this. About 2 or 3 cups of Trans fluid will leak out of the transaxle when the axle is removed.

• When replacing the right drive axle, the speedometer gear should be removed BEFORE removing the drive axle.
• Remove the retaining bolt, and pull out the gear. It is held with a O ring, so it might be tight. This is done before the axle is pulled out so the gear is not damaged during removal or when the axle is pushed back in the housing. (Note: It is possible to remove the right axle without removing the speedometer gear if you are VERY careful!
• Put the new axle in the transmission making sure it is fully seated in the transmission.
• Put a heavy coating of Grease on the area where the face of the axle contacts the steering knuckle. This is called the wear ring and wheel bearing seal, and must be full of grease!
• Swing the steering knuckle out and slip the axle splines back into it.
• Put back on the thick washer and 32mm nut hand tight.
• Push, pull, and swing the knuckle so that the ball joint pin slips back up into the bottom. Put the bolt back in. If the bolt wont go in, look down through the hole, and adjust the ball joint pin position.
• Swing the sway bar back up and bolt the mount plates on each end back to the Lower A frames on both sides of the car. You may need to use a jack to raise and hold it up.
• Tighten the 32MM nut on the end of the drive shaft to 200 ft lbs. (VERY tight!)
• Put the spring washer on the axle nut, and the nut locking cover. Turn this nut cover until the holes line up with the axle, and put the cotter pin in. bend the ends of the pin over to keep it from falling out.
• Replace the tires, tighten lug nuts, remove axle stands and lower car to the ground.
• Drive it a few miles and recheck the lug nuts and all other bolts you took off. Check and replace any lost Trans fluid

Left and right ball joints

• Set parking brake, raise front of car and support on axle stands, remove both front wheels.
• Remove 4 bolts that hold the sway bar attached to the lower A frames on both sides of the car. The bolts (2 each) secure a plate which compresses a rubber insulator which goes around the end of the sway bar. These bolts pass all the way through the A frame with 13mm nuts on top. They have 13mm heads on the bolt and 13mm nuts. They are about 1.5 inches long. These bolts are tight and rusty and often break. You will have better success using an impact wrench to remove them without breaking them. I also use ZEP-45 as a penetrating oil, it is the best I have ever seen. Apply ZEP-45 and allow it to soak for 20 to 30 minutes before attempting to remove the bolts.
• The sway bar will still be attached to the "K Frame" by way of two other rubber mounts farther inboard. Just push down on the end of the bar, swiveling it down. It will spin in the rubber bushings, it just may be stuck.
• Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball joint has a vertical "pin" sticking out the top of it which is attached to the steering knuckle. It sticks in a hole in the bottom of the knuckle and is clamped in place by a single horizontal bolt. This bolt has a 15mm head, and 18mm nut. Remove this bolt. It might have to be tapped out if it is stuck. If so, leave the nut on the very end of the bolt so you don't damage the bolt threads when you hit it.
• Slip the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I prefer to use a bottle jack (I have plenty at my place) to support the steering knuckle while I drive the lower control arm downward with a hammer, thus driving the ball joint outa the steering knuckle. You can also use a pry bar, crow bar, or whatever, and pry down on the lower A frame slipping the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. It should just slide out with a little force.
• You can't easily change the ball joint yourself as it is actually pressed into the lower control arm (or "A" arm). I prefer to remove the "A" arm and take it to my mechanic to press out the old and press in the new ball joints. He has to eat too! In this case, you need to remove the "A" arm from the car. The "A" arm is bolted to the "K" frame with two rather large bolts. Each bolt has a 19mm head and bolted in through the rubber bushing from the front of the car toward the rear. These bolts are tight and often rusted. Get out the ZEP-45 again! You can use the impact on the front one but the rear one can't be reached that way, you'll be reduced to a swing bar or large ratchet.
• Once you have that "A" arm out, you are all set, have your mechanic replace that ball joint for you and then reinstall everything in the reverse order of removal.

Left and right tie rod ends

• Set parking brake, raise front of car and support on axle stands, remove both front wheels.
• Remove the cotter pin from the end of the tie-rod end, remove the castle nut, leave the nut on slightly or better yet, take it off, turn it over and thread it back on a few turns. Whack it with your hammer to remove the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.
• On the tie-rod, there is a locking nut that keeps the tie-rod end from turning. Loosen that nut and then spin the tie-rod end off the tie-rod. Take note of how far on the old tie-rod end was on the tie-rod.
• Spin on the new tie rod end, taking note to spin it on about as far as the old one was. This is important to maintain your steering alignment. I only am careful of this so as to get the adjustment close enough to drive the car to my mechanic and have a full alignment done.
• Replace the tires, tighten lug nuts, remove axle stands and lower car to the ground.

Steering rack

• Set parking brake, raise front of car and support on axle stands, remove both front wheels.
• Remove 4 bolts that hold the sway bar attached to the lower A frames on both sides of the car. The bolts (2 each) secure a plate which compresses a rubber insulator which goes around the end of the sway bar. These bolts pass all the way through the A frame with 13mm nuts on top. They have 13mm heads on the bolt and 13mm nuts. They are about 1.5 inches long. These bolts are tight and rusty and often break. You will have better success using an impact wrench to remove them without breaking them. I also use ZEP-45 as a penetrating oil, it is the best I have ever seen. Apply ZEP-45 and allow it to soak for 20 to 30 minutes before attempting to remove the bolts.
• The sway bar will still be attached to the "K Frame" by way of two other rubber mounts farther inboard. Just push down on the end of the bar, swiveling it down. It will spin in the rubber bushings, it just may be stuck.
• Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball joint has a vertical "pin" sticking out the top of it which is attached to the steering knuckle. It sticks in a hole in the bottom of the knuckle and is clamped in place by a single horizontal bolt. This bolt has a 15mm head, and 18mm nut. Remove this bolt. It might have to be tapped out if it is stuck. If so, leave the nut on the very end of the bolt so you don't damage the bolt threads when you hit it.
• Slip the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I prefer to use a bottle jack (I have plenty at my place) to support the steering knuckle while I drive the lower control arm downward with a hammer, thus driving the ball joint outa the steering knuckle. You can also use a pry bar, crow bar, or whatever, and pry down on the lower A frame slipping the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. It should just slide out with a little force.
• Remove the four 19mm fasteners (2 bolts, 2 nuts) that hold the "K" frame to the car. You should support the "K" frame with a pair of bottle jacks so you can lower it slowly as you undo the power steering lines.
• Lower the "K" frame enough that the steering shaft separates above the U-joint. It should be noted here that it would be beneficial to secure the steering wheel with the seatbelt or the column lock so that it doesn't get turned around too many times. If it does, you can damage the air bag connections inside.
• Remove the power steering hoses from the steering rack using a 18mm wrench. Also remove the bracket at the front side of the "K" frame that holds the hoses together. That is held with a 10mm bolt.
• Lower the "K" frame and remove the assembly from under the car.
• Four 5/8" bolts hold the rack to the "K" frame. Remove those and remove the rack from the "K" frame.

• Punch out the roll pin that holds the U-joint assembly to the rack.
• Slide the U-joint assembly off the rack's spline shaft. I had to heat it with a propane torch to get it to slide off.

• I can't decide what is easier but, when you need to mate the steering rack up with the steering column again, you have two choices. You can either install the U-joint onto the rack and try to mate the "D" slip fitting onto the steering shaft while lifting the assembly into place OR you can install the "D" slip fitting onto the steering shaft and then try to mate up the spline while you lift the assembly into place. I find each to be about equal in difficulty. I seem to have better success with the latter procedure. In this case, at this point, you do not want to install the U-joint onto the new rack. If you choose to use the first installation option, then at this point, install the U-joint and roll pin back onto the rack's spline shaft.
• Remove the "U" clamps that hold the rack to the "K" frame along with the small brackets under the "U" clamps.
• Install the "U" clamps back onto the new rack assembly along with the bottom portion of the brackets and bolt the new rack assembly onto the "K" frame.

• Slide the "K" frame assembly back under the car. Lift it about half way up using a bottle jack or something else to your liking. Remove the plugs from the two power steering hose fittings on the rack. Install the power steering hoses. Now is the time to install new power steering hoses if you wish.

• Lift the "K" frame assembly up until you can fit the rear mounting holes over the two mounting studs that are in the car's body. You can slip the "K" frame assembly over these studs slightly and reinstall those special conical nuts upside down for time being just so the "K" frame assembly will be aligned to the car properly so you can re-connect the steering shaft.
• The procedure for reconnecting the steering shaft depends on weather or not you installed the U-joint on the rack or the steering shaft. Regardless, you have to align that thing now and get it up there into place.
• When the steering shaft is in place, raise the "K" frame assembly all the way into place and replace the 19mm bolts that hold it into place (2 bolts, 2 nuts)
• Reinstall the ball joints and tie rod ends in the reverse order of removal and take the car for an alignment.

Power steering pressure hose